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Arja Textiles
Artex Knitting Mills, Inc.
NJ Headware / Unionwear
Nueva Vida
PT Sepatu Bata TBK
Quality Knitting Limited
Union Line Inc. / Graybear
Universal Sportswear
Wigwam Mills, Inc.















































































 
Arja Textiles, Bethlehem, Palestine

Our CEO, Adam Neiman, inspected the factory in July of last year, the week after the war in Lebanon began. His findings are below...

I visited al Arja Textiles in mid July of 2006 to inspect working conditions and meet with the management and union leaders to determine if the factory met our production standards. The workplace was clean, well lit, well ventilated and safe. In the full heat of the summer the concrete slab construction, open windows and plentiful ceiling fans kept the temperature at a comfortable level of 70º or so. Each major work area had a water cooler and first aid station. Bathrooms were clean and stocked with toilet paper. That’s not a minor detail. I’ve visited factories (including a US union factory we chose not to source from) where management kept the toilet paper under lock and key. It’s a pretty sure sign that wages are inadequate when workers feel compelled to steal the toilet paper! Exits were well placed and marked. I found one little used exit with more debris at the bottom than advisable and no handrail. I also thought the screen printing room could have used an additional ventilator. I discussed these with Elias Alarja, the Palestinian owner of al Arja, and he agreed to rectify those conditions after we began production, which seemed reasonable. We will be conducting a complete independent audit this Spring, but in general I found conditions to be quite comparable with the US union factories we source from.

Palestinian General Federation of Trade Unions (PGFTU).
Like most Palestinian social institutions, the PGTFU has been operating under extreme duress for 40 years because of the ongoing occupation. Travel is extremely difficult because of the frequent security checkpoints. While most Palestinian workers are members, the PGTFU has never held an election nor charged dues to date. The union has survived on donations from the major European trade unions (where it's leadership is held in very high regard) and, until the election of Hamas last year, block grants from the Palestinian authority. The union leadership is Muslim but rather secular (as is the majority of the population on the West Bank) and is loosely affiliated with Fatah (the party that recognizes the right of Israel to exist within 1967 borders), much the way the US labor movement is loosely affiliated with the Democratic Party. The relations between the PGTFU and the Israeli Labor party are among the strongest remaining ties between the two countries.

Normally the absence of elections would disqualify this union from No Sweat’s standards for workplace democracy. But the extenuating circumstances of life in the occupied territories, (in particular, the difficulty that travel there imposes on elections), the extreme need of the population, as well as the potential to have a positive impact on the conflict and the union, compelled us to consider this source. In our standards, we do reserve that option. General Secretary Said, the leader of the PGFTU, was kind enough to drive down through six hours of roadblocks from Nablus to meet with me. I had offered to drive up but was grateful that the offer was declined. Nablus is a pretty militant town and no one felt that they could guarantee my security. I met with Sahel Said and several local PGTFU leaders along with the factory owner. They agreed that if No Sweat became a steady customer they would hold elections with ILO observers and begin collective bargaining this Spring.

A number of informed people (US labor leaders who have done extensive solidarity work in the occupied territories as well as the Israeli consul general in Boston) explained to me before traveling to the West Bank that labor/management conflict was all but nonexistent in the nation building phase that Palestinian society is passing through. Social solidarity in the face of the occupation takes precedence over class struggle. The Israeli labor movement passed through a similar phase from which it emerged as a robust defender of Israeli workers. Factory owners that continue to operate under near impossible conditions and provide good jobs with benefits exceeding what is required by law are regarded as local heroes, as they should be. We are proud to support this factory and proud to assist the PGTFU become a fully functioning union by our engagement.

Below is a review of wages & benefits by Hani Mourad, who consults for the UN on the garment and textile industry.

Adam Neiman Founder & CEO,
Bienestar International
Manufacturers of No Sweat Apparel


Organic Cotton Certification


Summary of Arja Wages & Benefits

Benefits provided to all factory workers:

  1. Health Care:
    They provide workers insurance policy, but it does not cover family members (Individual only)

     
  2. Paid Holidays:
    21 days of paid holidays per the year, that includes religious holidays as well.

     
  3. Working Hours:
    48 working hours per week

     
  4. Wages:
    Lowest paid seamstress per hour = 3.60NIS* ($0.86)
    Highest paid seamstress for per hour = 6.70NIS ($1.60)
    Dyer’s wages per hour, lowest = 7.70NIS ($1.83) & highest = 19.00NIS ($4.5)
    Knitting machine operators wages for per hour, highest = 15.40NIS ($3.66) & lowest = 6.00NIS ($1.43)

     
  5. Extra benefits:
    The health care insurance is regarded as such since it is not required by the current Palestinian labor law. No additional benefits are given the workers.

Hani Mourad
International Consultant Garments and Textiles

 

How do these wages translate in the Palestinian economy? There is no legal minimum wage. We compared Arja wages to incomes for Palestinian families ranked by five quadrilles...

Top 20% monthly NIS*- 4343
2nd 20% monthly NIS- 1978
3rd 20% monthly NIS- 1329
4th 20% monthly NIS- 897
5th 20% monthly NIS- 411

This is by family. Typically, Palestinian families have multiple income earners, with sons & daughters remaining in the house and contributing income until they marry. But assuming Arja workers are sole income earners....

The lowest paid seamstress earns 691 NIS- between 4th & 5th
The highest paid seamstress earns 1286 NIS- between 4th & 3rd, on high end

The lowest paid dyer earns 1478 NIS- between 3rd & 2nd
The highest paid dyer earns 3648 NIS- between 2nd & top, on high end

The lowest paid knitter earns1152 NIS- between 3rd & 4th
The highest paid knitter earns 2956 NIS- between 2nd & top, on high end

Arja workers (if they are sole income earners for family) are thus in the lower middle quadrille to upper middle quadrille of Palestinian families. If there are 2 wage earners, even if the second is in the 5th quadrille, that family is solidly in the middle range of income earners. Pay rises with seniority and turnover is low.

Given the need for these jobs, given the scope of the opportunity, and given what we know about this factory, No Sweat has a great deal of confidence in this source. Still, a complete independent audit of this factory is planned for this Spring. Results should be posted on this website by the end of May.

* New Israeli Shekel (4.2 = $1.00)